If you can't get on plane, and stay on plane, you are basically going the same speed as you can go with a good electric motor. motor for Yargo, and a gas motor in the 15-20 HP range, if you keep this boat. I think eventually you will get a decent elec. I'm just thinking out loud here, but with the extra weight in your boat, I guessing that a 9.9 isn't going to make you happy. I participate in a boatbuilder's forum, and the general consensus there is that it takes at least 9 HP to get a 14 foot boat up on plane and keep it there, lightly loaded. Don't mean rocketing down the lake, but just up and on plane and staying on plane. That's a good looking boat, and it would be shame not to get decent performance out of it. So maybe a 9.9 will do, but I'd make sure I could try it out before committing to buy it. Now there's some debate about whether there is really an real HP difference between the old OMC 9.9 and 15 HP. My SWAG is that you will need at least 15 HP to get decent performance out of it. Plus just looking at it, it looks as if it is built very solidly, i.e. That's a fiberglass boat, and it's significantly heavier than an alum. If it's a homemade boat, it may possibly be a displacement hull, and not a planing hull, or just heavy, and once it reaches a certain speed, that's all she's going to go.Īgain before I started taking things apart, I'd find someone with a 12 foot jon, put your motor on it, and see how it will do.Ĭlick to expand.Well, here are my thoughts, and they're worth exactly what you've paid for them. If it's an Eska, parts are virtually impossible to come by. Too many things to break, and parts for these motors are hard to come by. There's no way I'd pull the powerhead though. Other quick cheap check is to borrow a prop that's known to be good and see if it will work o.k. Did you put the motor in gear (with the plug wire off) and try to turn the prop by hand? You may have to really lean into it, but if it turns without turning the motor (flywheel), then you have a spun prop. in response to Lizella Fella, you said you pulled the prop. What you are describing is classic for a spun prop. If that's the case, leave the powerhead alone - you're lucky. When it starts "slipping" does the motor just start turning high revs, but you're not going any where. Thanks again guys, Ho-JazzĬlick to expand.Why would you want to do that. If still no go, I guess Ill tear into the powerhead and get to the top of the driveshaft. Kevin, Im starting to think the same thing as you are.after looking I would say the prop is maybe 10-12 inchs below the surface when the boat was loaded with 3 people and gear.Gonna try it one more time with a little more weight in the rear of the boat and see what happens. (it pays to have good neighbors ) Just trying to salvage this this into maybe a summers worth of small ponds. As for getting ripped off.Ive only got about twenty $in this engine now and that was in gas, oil, lead additive and a new plug. Tonight I will take a small magnet and see if I can attract any metal from it. The oil did not have any shavings in it that I could see, But I do still have the oil sitting in an old plastic tray in the garage. I have checked all the bevel gears in the lower unit, they seem to be good hardly show any signs of wear. Or where do I get a nice vintage maroon?ĭo I really need to drain and replace the lower unit lube? It doesn’t seem to have leaked out at all.Thanks for all the replies guys.I really do appreciate any help I can get.Ĭypress. I imagine high temp engine paint for the motor, metallic silver for the lower unit, and red enamel for the tank? My real concern is that I don’t screw up the engine. My question for the forum is: What would you recommend to put it back in service? And I don’t mind the dents in the tank, but I would like to repaint it. It’s just been sitting ( In my living room, as I didn’t want it getting cold) for a few years. The old guy at the maria who won’t touch it says run kerosene through the cylinders to loosen up rust. My Brother in law tells me to run pure octane through it to start it up. I haven’t run the old Sea King in years, and want to just clean out the gunk and get it running again as a back up, since the lake is pretty big, and if there is a catastrophic failure with the electrical, I don’t want to row home. I recently moved to the Raystown Dam area in Pennsylvania and am putting together an electric boat, using an old 1960 aluminum row boat, 2 Sears, Ted Williams, Shakespeare trolling motors, which will be hooked up to a solar panel on a canopy, and that will trickle charge the batteries to run the old trolling motors as they discharge, having hooked them up in a series. I have a 1948 Sea King (I Believe it is a ’48) Model # 94GG9003A, I bought at a yard sale, and had a friend clean up and I used it on a small pond I lived on in Vermont.
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